Mohan Singh Kohli

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Captain Mohan Singh Kohli AVSM
Born	(1931-12-11) 11 December 1931 (age 92) Haripur, British India
Allegiance	India
Service / branch	Indo-Tibetan Border Police
Years of service	1
Rank	Captain
Awards	Padma Bhushan Ati Vishisht Seva Medal Arjuna Award IMF Gold Medal

Captain Mohan Singh Kohli (born 11 December 1931), is an Indian Navy officer and mountaineer, who led the 1965 Indian Everest Expedition, which saw nine men reach the summit of Everest, a world record for 17 years.^[1]

Born and raised in Haripur on the banks of the Indus in the Karakoram mountains of the North West Frontier, Kohli witnessed the massacre of over 2,000 people during the partition of India.

Beginning with Saser Kangri (25,170 ft) in 1956, he has participated in 20 major Himalayan expeditions, including India's first ascent of Nanda Kot and the maiden ascent of Annapurna III. In 1962, he spent three consecutive nights, including two without oxygen, on Everest at 27,650 feet during severe blizzards, joining a select group of climbers.

During his tenure with the Indian Navy, he incorporated adventure training. Over 15 years with the Indo-Tibetan Border Police, he developed the force into a notable mountaineering organisation. Leading seven significant and sensitive missions under the guidance of officers B.N. Mullick and R.N. Kao, he worked with climbers and scientists from the US to install nuclear-powered listening devices on Indian Himalayan peaks to monitor Chinese missile capabilities.

Upon joining Air-India in 1971, Kohli promoted ‘Trekking in the Himalayas’ globally, making over 1,000 presentations in more than 50 countries, including appearances on popular TV programmes such as ‘To Tell the Truth’ and ‘David Frost Show’. On 3 December 1978, he flew over the South Pole.

To protect the Himalayas, he secured support from Sir Edmund Hillary and other Himalayan figures, including Maurice Herzog, Sir Chris Bonington, Reinhold Messner, and Junko Tabei, establishing the Himalayan Environment Trust on 14 October 1989. The trust has contributed to preserving this world heritage.

In India, he also introduced Himalayan tourism, white-water rafting, aero-sports, luxury sea cruises, tourist charters to Goa, international conferences, and opened Lakshadweep and the Andaman Islands to tourism.

His 14-year tenure as Vice-President/President of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation was marked by many significant developments. Since retiring in 1990, he has focused on the development of youth through various adventure and outdoor leadership projects.

Kohli served as President of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation from 1989 to 1993. He co-founded the Himalayan Environment Trust in 1989.

He has received the following awards:

1. Padma Bhushan^[2][3]
2. Arjuna Award^[4]
3. Ati Vishisht Seva Medal
4. IMF Gold Medal
5. Punjab Government's Nishan-e-Khalsa
6. Delhi Government's Most Distinguished Citizen of Delhi Award
7. Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award 2007 in the lifetime achievement category

He has also received several international recognitions.

Kohli is known for leading India's first successful Indian Everest Expedition in 1965. Nine climbers reached the summit, setting a world record that stood for 17 years. Upon the team's return from Nepal, the Prime Minister personally received them at the airport, a break from protocol. The entire team was awarded the Arjuna Award, and all eleven members received the Padma Bhushan or Padma Shri.

Former Prime Minister Indira Gandhi praised the expedition: “The record of Commander Kohli’s expedition will find special mention in history. It was a masterpiece of planning, organization, teamwork, individual effort and leadership.” She also called it one of India's six major achievements after Independence.

A full-length film on the expedition, with music by Shankar Jaikishan, was released across India and abroad. The story of the achievement was widely covered in national newspapers and magazines. Kohli and some team members were honoured in cities like Brussels, Paris, Geneva, and Rome. Tenzing Norgay accompanied Captain Kohli to several countries.

In addition to the Everest expedition, Captain M.S. Kohli and Tenzing Norgay climbed several European peaks, piloted by Raymond Lambert.

In India, the team was invited by Chief Ministers of various states and honoured at receptions. On 8 September 1965, Kohli addressed Members of Parliament in the Central Hall. The expedition sparked a significant increase in adventure clubs and mountaineering activities, leading to a resurgence in Indian mountaineering.^{[5][6][7][8][9][10]}

• Incredible Himalayas, Indus Publishing (2005) ISBN 81-7387-179-5
• Mountains of India, Indus Publishing (2004) ISBN 81-7387-135-3
• The Great Himalayan Climb, Orient Paperbacks (2003) ISBN 978-81-222058-7-9
• Spies in the Snow, How CIA and the Indian Intelligence Lost a Nuclear Device in the Himalayas
• Spies of Anil in the Himalayas: Secret Missions and Perilous Climbs, University Press of Kansas (2003) ISBN 0-7006-1223-8
• The Himalayas: Playground of the Gods: Trekking, Climbing, Adventure (2000) M.S. Kohli
• Mountaineering in India (1989)

• Indian summiters of Mount Everest - Year wise
• List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit
• List of Mount Everest records of India
• List of Mount Everest records

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Mohan Singh Kohli.

• Bio details on publisher's website
• History of mountaineering in the Indo-Tibetan Border Police
• The missing radioactive sensor, Deccan Herald, April 25, 2004
• CIA nuclear device atop Himalayas, Times of India, June 5, 2003
• profile of Captain M.S. Kohli on geocities at the Wayback Machine (archived 27 October 2009)