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Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich (21 July 1937 in Łbowo, central Poland – 27 May 1989 on Mount Everest) was a Polish mountaineer who made several ascents of eight-thousanders. He died in an avalanche on the northwest slopes of Mount Everest in 1989.[1]
Achievements
[edit]Tatra Mts and Alps
[edit]Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich undertook many serious climbs including difficult new routes and first winter ascents. Among Polish climbers, the team Heinrich-Chrobak was held in high prestige and Eugeniusz Chrobak is still considered one of the best Polish Himalayan climbers of all time. The Heinrich-Chrobak team was very much the Polish equivalent of the Bonington-Whillans team in Britain.
Great Ranges
[edit]- 1971 – Kunyang Chhish (7852 m) – first ascent to the summit (along with Andrzej Zawada, Jan Stryczyński and Ryszard Szafirski).[2]
- 1974 – Lhotse (8250 m) in winter with Andrzej Zawada, reaching a height of 8,250 meters (27,070 feet), the first time anyone had gone above 8000 m in winter.[3][4]
- 1978 – Kanchenjunga Central (8482 m), first ascent – together with Wojciech Brański, Kazimierz Olech.[5]
- 1979 – Lhotse (8516 m), 4 October, ascent together with Andrzej Czok, Jerzy Kukuczka and Janusz Skorek.[6][3]
- 1980 – Mount Everest, participated in the winter expedition, leading the way by the Ice Fall, and participated in setting up higher camps.[7]
- 1981 – Masherbrum, SW Peak (7806 m), first ascent, with Marek Malatyński and Przemysław Nowacki. On the descent Malatyński and Nowacki both died during an enforced and exposed bivouac but Heinrich survived and managed to descend to base camp despite taking a fall of 650 to 1000 feet down ice-cliffs.[8]
- 1985 – Cho Oyu (8201 m), winter expedition, new route via SE Pillar, ascent with Jerzy Kukuczka (15 February, three days after the first winter ascent by the team of the same expedition, Maciej Berbeka and Maciej Pawlikowski).[9][6]
- 1985 – Nanga Parbat (8126 m), first ascent of the NE buttress, on the summit together with Jerzy Kukuczka, Carlos Carsolio and Sławomir Łobodziński.[10]
Sources
[edit]- Andrzej Zawada: Cho Oyu's Three-Kilometer-High Face. American Alpine Journal, 1986, pp. 6–13 (with 2 photographs with lines depicted, but these photos are not included with the online copy)
External links
[edit]- AAJ, Searchable online access
- Strona poświęcona pamięci himalaisty Andrzeja Heinricha (in Polish)
- portrait on www.nyka.home.pl (in Polish)
References
[edit]- ^ "Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich, Kazimierz Olech and Andrzej Czok". Summit Post. 11 February 2011. Retrieved 19 May 2024.
- ^ Kus, Andrzej (1971). "Khinyang Chhish climbed". Himalayan Journal. #31: 283–289. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
- ^ a b Brniak, Marek; Nyka, Józef (1981). "Two Polish Ascents of Everest". American Alpine Journal. #23 (55): 51–53. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 9 April 2024.
- ^ Zawada, Andrzej (1977). "Winter at 8250 m: Polish Expedition to Lhotse 1974" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #82 (326): 28–35. ISBN 978-0-900523-21-2. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
- ^ Malatynski, Marek; Mlotecki, Piotr (1980). "Kangchenjunga south and central". Himalayan Journal. #36: 6–13. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
- ^ a b Kukuczka, Jerzy (1992). My Vertical World: Climbing the 8000-Metre Peaks. Hodder & Stoughton. ISBN 0-340-53485-0. Retrieved 8 April 2024.
- ^ Zawada, Andrzej (1984). "Mount Everest – The First Winter Ascent" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #89 (333): 50–58. ISBN 978-0-900523-49-6. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
- ^ Nyka, Jozef (1982). "Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Southwest, Ascent and Tragedy". American Alpine Journal. #24 (56): 271–272. ISBN 978-0-930410-15-5. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
- ^ Zawada, Andrzej (1986). "Cho Oyu's Three-Kilometer-High Face. American Alpine Journal". American Alpine Journal. #28 (60): 6–13. ISBN 978-0-930410-27-8. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
- ^ Skok, Janez (1986). "Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Rupal Buttress Ascent and Tragedy". American Alpine Journal. 28 (60): 290. ISBN 978-0-930410-27-8. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 29 February 2024.
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